At the age of 28, I finally got a chance to visit the ‘Jewel in India’s crown’ – the quintessential paradise on earth, as they call it, and realized that everything they said about it is true.

“If there be a paradise on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here!” a besotted Mughal emperor once said these words on visiting Kashmir, and that was exactly how I felt as I saw it with my own eyes.

First of all, in spite of having been to so many different countries of the world, it was so humbling to know that there was yet such a beautiful part that I had never seen – one that was right here in my own country.

For those of you who may be just as fascinated by this destination and are planning to visit soon, here’s a daywise journal-entry style account of exactly what all I did while here:

Day 1 | I land in Srinagar and take a cab into the city. I reach the beautiful houseboats where I am booked to stay, located in the heart of the serene Nageen lake. The houseboats are one of the precious treasures of heritage and are the finest way to experience the real Kashmir, I am told. A shikara ride from the shore brings me to the reception as I check into my room. A soothing cup of kahwa tea served in the traditional samovar {a charcoal-based vessel for boiling tea} awaits me in the sit-out lounge area outside, with some delicious honey walnut tarts and mixed fruit macaroons. I marvel at the décor of the dining room as well as the spectacular view of the lake, and it all makes me feel extremely grand and royal.

The houseboats in Srinagar

The boats were made of old seasoned pine wood in the British times. Rafiq ji, the owner, tells me that their maintenance is very difficult, as the government doesn’t encourage it. He calls it a ‘dying’ industry, as the Kashmiri youth want to take up different professions.

I head out for a shikara ride on Nageen lake after a quick wash and change. There are ‘floating bazaars’ moving alongside me, selling the most beautiful flower buds. Watching the sunset over the lake is an unparalleled experience. The backdrop of snow-capped mountains, amidst the silhouettes of shikaras, clouds reflected in the calm waters of the lake, and lotus leaves with drops of water on them that look like tiny diamonds…I inhale the air, which is clean, unpolluted, and pure. At a distance, I spot the gleaming lights emanating from the Hazratbal mosque. As we get closer, I stop and pay my respects.

The floating bazaars

In the evening, Maqbool ji, the cook informs me that a huge traditional wazwan feast awaits me – seekh kebab, rista, gustaba, nadru yakhni {made of lotus stem}, rajma, saffron rice, haak saag, and do pyaza. There’s also an assortment of delectable breads: sheermal, girda, and lavasa. I find it all a bit overwhelming, but irresistible all the same!

At night, I find that the rooms are cosy and luxurious, complete with heating systems, geysers, and electric blankets. Further, the Wi-Fi connectivity is excellent and surprises me with its speed! In no time, I fall into a deep and satisfied sleep.

Day 2 | The next day, I’m up and ready to go up to Sonamarg. It’s one of the most scenic drives along the Sindh river that joins Jhelum and goes directly to Pakistan. I marvel at the untouched beauty around me: orchards with trees of apple, cherry, poplar, walnut, chinar, strawberry, willow {famous for making most of India’s finest cricket bats}, and mulberry {whose leaves are fed to worms for their silk}. My driver, Rashid ji tells me about migratory birds that come from Siberia and settle down in the rice paddy fields for several months every year. I can’t help but notice all the armed police personnel and security guards on the way. It feels a bit irksome, but ensures safety all at the same time. He senses my unease and points out that there is no danger for tourists in Kashmir, because they are the ones funding the local economy. He adds that the media only highlights stray terrorist incidents in the valley and so people feel that it’s unsafe to be here, whereas the truth is quite contrary. He reminisces about the ‘dark days’ of the nineties when the state was like a fortress and people didn’t come out of their homes for days. “We lost a lot during that time. Our children didn’t go to school for four years. There were mornings when I would tell my wife that inshallah, I would see her in the evening.” But he adds that the government has done a lot in the past few years and that things are much under control now.

The snow at Sonamarg

At Sonamarg, I am amazed to find a hue of blinding white all around me – clearly the winter snow is still fresh, yet the sun adds a bright and sparkling yellow tinge. After posing for various pictures, I grab a quick lunch at one of the picnic spots in the area. After that, it’s back to the houseboats.

I reach by evening and decide to head out for a walk to a cherry park just behind the boats. There are lots of young children roaming about – some playing badminton, others sitting together and talking.

Later in the evening, Maqbool ji reminds me that there are some dishes from the wazwan that were not included in last night’s meal. My mouth begins to water at the mere thought. Mutton dhaniya korma, mirchi korma, alu bukhara, roast chicken, tabak maaz {ribs}, dum aloo…Before I know it, I’m stuffed and dreaming blissfully.

Day 3 | The next morning, I’m up early and all geared to set out into the city. Rashid ji drives onto a road around the open Dal lake. I notice fountains on some parts of the lake as we visit the famous Mughal gardens one by one – there’s Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh – which have a collection of some of the most exquisite pansies, calendulas, astors, daffodils, and butter poppies I’ve ever seen! The 17^th century gardens are very well maintained to this day and Pari Mahal even provides a great aerial view of the whole city. But undoubtedly, the one I’ll probably remember for the rest of my life was the Tulip Garden, which is an absolute delight: Rows and rows of colourful tulips in full bloom – they remind you of a giant bedspread of flowers in which you want to drown yourself.

The Tulip Garden, Srinagar

After that visual fiesta, we drive further onto the next leg of our journey – toward Pahalgam. A scenic drive with a good road, the town flows along the Lidder river and is famous for trout fishing. Rashid ji helpfully points out sites of all the Bollywood film shoots from the past. Looking out of my window, I sense solace and tranquility in Pahalgam.

The temperature noticeably dips, but fortunately, I find a traditional bukhari heater in the hotel as soon as I enter. After checking into my room, I walk around the market area. There are shops selling pashmina shawls, carpets, papier-mâché crafts and other local accessories. The locals seem snug with little kangris hidden surreptitiously in their phirans and the women {referred to as ‘khatoons’} with their hijabs.

As it starts to get dark, I return to the hotel and enjoy a buffet dinner.

Day 4 | The next morning, I decide to do some sightseeing around town. There’s Betab valley, which has open gardens. It’s raining a little, but I enjoy the walk and its views all the same. Next up is Aru valley, which I realize is actually a wildlife sanctuary. There are many tourists taking pony rides in the valley and I use the opportunity to shop for some shirts with the famous local embroidery {kashida}.

I also buy some of the local almonds, dried apricots, figs, cumin, black jeera, and kernel seeds to carry back home.

The night is once again quiet and peaceful.

Day 5 | The next morning, I leave for Gulmarg after breakfast. I’m told it’s one of the prettiest summer resorts in the valley, and has the highest golf course in the world. What’s surprising to know though is that Gulmarg has no residents. It’s certainly a lot colder here as I peep out of the window at what looks like a stunning white sheet spread all over the mountains! I check into my little cottage at the hotel, grab a quick lunch, and decide not to waste any of the bright sunshine outside. A short jaunt downhill brings me to the city marketplace that’s flooded with tourists waiting in line to take the gondola ride up to Khilanmarg.

Gulmarg

Luckily, I had booked my ticket online for the next morning, so the queue for it would be shorter. I decide to indulge in some skiing – there’s a makeshift patch of snow where people are going on sledge hammers and riding on snow scooters – all with the help of an instructor. It’s all safe and a whole lot of fun and I shamefully pose like a thrilled tourist faking skiing stunts in various pictures!

The sun begins to set, so I start walking back to the hotel and explore. The restaurant has large open windows that provide a great view of the landscape, the menu is varied, and the décor of the lounge-bar reeks of old-world charm. After taking in so much beauty for one day, I’m a bit exhausted and decide to call it a day.

Day 6 | The next morning, I’m all set for the gondola ride in the city. I quickly stand in front of the ticket window and before I know it, there’s a long line of tourists waiting behind me. On collecting my boarding pass from the window, I head to the gondola. The gondola goes up to Khilanmarg within a few minutes. On reaching there, it’s like being in heaven – covered with snow all over – not to mention, the sea of humanity all around. There is also a smattering of experienced skiers who are going all the way up to Koongdoori mountain and coming down with precocious speed. I click lots of pictures in various angles and notice several honeymooning couples around me doing the same!

On reaching the top at Khilanmarg after the gondola ride

Predictably like most places, this one too has little dhabas and bigger restaurants serving food and small shops selling other local ware. After spending about an hour up there, I finally make the descent into town. I pack my things and am all set to drive up to Srinagar again.

***

Reaching Srinagar feels familiar, like returning home after a holiday. I decide to do my last bit of shopping before leaving this paradise. I am driven through Lal Chowk, one of the biggest markets in town, from where I pick up a miniature shikara boat as a souvenir to carry back home. We then go to one of the city’s premier bakeries, called Jee Enn, from where I buy a box of honey walnut tarts and mixed fruit macaroons for friends and family. We also go to a wholesale market in Jamia nagar, from where I pick up a samovar and a kangri. Before leaving, I also pay my respects at the 650-year old Jama Masjid located nearby, which is lovely. 

I finally head to the airport in time, though with a heavy heart. There is tight security everywhere – with several rounds of checking, but it feels more reassuring than intimidating. Soon, I am in the plane and bidding adieu to this pristine valley and all its splendour.

The shikaras

There are many gorgeous things I am taking back with me, but more than anything else, I feel blessed to have been here. Supposedly or so it seems, the world can be divided into two kinds of people – those who have been to Kashmir and those of haven’t, and I am proud to say that I have just crossed over to the other side…

In a complete Kashmir state of mind and with a myriad of thoughts running through my brain, the primary learning certainly is that there are things beyond one’s control – anything can happen anywhere – be it Bangalore, Boston, Delhi or Srinagar. But it surely shouldn’t stop you from traveling to a place.

Notes in our Little Black Book |

Get there | Flight from Delhi to Srinagar (30+ daily flights)

Stay | 

Srinagar: Welcom Heritage Gurkha houseboats; Opp. Nagin Club, Nagin Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir {J&K}
Contact: +91-194-242 1001

Pahalgam: Senator Pine-n-Peak, Pahalgam; Aru Raod, Pahalgam, Kashmir {J&K}

Gulmarg: Hotel Highlands Park; Near Church Road, Gulmarg, Kashmir {J&K} Or Khyber Hotel; The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa, Gulmarg,
Contact:+91-1954-254666/Fax: +91-1954-254660

Ski | Gulmarg is counted as one of the best skiing grounds in the world, next only to the Alps, and the season lasts from December until end-March. If you’re heading around that time, it would be a crime to not enjoy skiing up on the gorgeous slopes. Whether you’re a novice or have trained in skiing before, you could contact the Indian Institute of Skiing & Mountaineering, Gulmarg. A brilliant facility run by the Tourism Ministry, the institute houses state-of-the-art equipment, well qualified trainers, and also runs a luxurious hotel within its premises.

For more information, visit http://iismgulmarg.com/ or contact: IISM, Near Golf Club, Gulmarg, Kashmir {J&K}
Contact: +91-1954-254480/+91-941 960 4990

The post Postcards from Kashmir appeared first on Little Black Book, Delhi.

The quest for a meaningful travel experience leaves you exhausted but completely jubilant! When my almost combustible desire to wander found an unexpected door in a travel contest organised by LBBD and Rare Destinations, I had no idea, that a.} travel contests were legit and one could actually win {!} and  b.} that I would be headed to one of those places for which the written word would never be quite enough!

Over the years, I’ve found a reliable way to assess the impact of any of my travels – if it opened your eyes, elicited that one, goose-bump inducing moment when you saw yourself as but a speck in a world so much larger, it was worth it. Nowhere did this resonate stronger than during my three-day stay at the beautiful Forsyth’s Lodge in the Satpura Tiger Reserve!

Jitterbuggy! 

It took us three hours to get from Bhopal to Forsyth’s Lodge. In that time, we had stopped at every railway crossing in our path, driven through a scenic highway lined with endless wheat fields, and gaped at beautiful teak forests. My emotions raced back and forth between mad joy – ‘This is really happening!’ – to sudden panic – ‘Will they even know who I am when I get there??’ As we inched our way closer, it felt as though we were inadvertently playing a game of hide and seek with the bushes when suddenly, the flora magically parted to reveal a quaint lodge in the midst of all the green. Waiting to welcome us was Rishi, the manager, Varun, the Naturalist who would be showing us around, three other staff members, and the Lady of the Lodge – Jingles, the regal Basset Hound! It was quite the Welcome Committee, and as the Lady and the affable staff led us into the Lodge, we felt at home instantly!

Forsyth’s Lodge            

{Tasteful and eclectic decor of the Lodge – Featured artwork by Ravi}

The Lodge and its compound were simple and unobtrusive in their beauty. Twelve individual cottages that were quaint, cozy, and tastefully decorated, blended perfectly with the forested surroundings. Delicate art work adorned the walls of our cottage. We found out later that these were made by Ravi, a member of the staff at Forsyth’s. Some of the intricately-made furniture in our cottage was courtesy Ravi’s father.

The folks at Forsyth’s ensured that we were well taken care of and were a delight to interact with! Apart from escorting us into the jungle, they also kept us entertained in other ways – bonfire and stargazing sessions with David, walks to the picturesque village nearby, or arranging the screening of a Tiger documentary. A day in the forest does wonders for the appetite, and nobody seemed to understand this better than the chefs at Forsyth’s! We were treated to delicious king-size meals, mostly Indian and Continental cuisine. Whether it was brunch at the table, bonfire and barbeque in the terrace, or a candlelit dinner in the bushes, the service and ambience were exemplary! There were also times when we enjoyed brunch made by the village women; dal batti cooked the traditional way and baingan ka bharta!

{Meal on wheels}

What I always came back with from all my interactions was the honesty of intention infused everywhere in the lodge – of people who take their roles as caretakers of the guests, the forest, and the community very seriously. It was an experience that was anecdotal and personal, with less glib and a lot more soul.

Hush!

The forest came to life for us in many ways, especially with the help of the naturalists at Forsyth’s and the park guides, who are passionate and devastatingly brilliant at what they do! They’re a motley crew, each with diverse interests in their own field – birds, trees, dragonflies, bull frogs, star gazing.  It wasn’t uncommon for them to suddenly lose track of a conversation, squint hard into the distance, and rush for their binoculars or cameras for that one, possibly rare sighting!

{A herd of Sambar}

The Satpura Tiger Reserve is unspoilt and the jungle experience here stands out from its counterparts. To begin with, there are a myriad peaceful and non-intrusive ways to explore the park.  A traditional gypsy safari allows you to cover more ground and the chances of spotting wildlife are higher. “They don’t really hear you coming until the last moment,” remarked Surya, one of the naturalists from the Lodge. And he was right! Our encounters from the gypsy, among many others, included a herd of Sambar that watched us very carefully, colourful jungle fowls, vultures, a graceful Nilgai, the rare Chousingha {whom we spotted twice!}, an aggressive Gaur, and a heart-stopping thirty seconds when we stared into the eyes of a mama Sloth Bear with her cub! She could’ve been mistaken for a big rock in the midst of all that tall grass. I was told that they’re short-sighted, so I’m not sure if she peered through the foliage to size us up or simply to make sure that we were actually there.

While the gypsy ride is usually the highlight of most safaris, the caretakers of Satpura take the concept of exploration a little further. They encourage travelers to get out of the gypsies and take to their feet to explore the wilderness! “We seem to think that the only way to see the forest is in a vehicle. That’s a norm we’ve accepted, but we forget that there was a time when the only way to explore the forest was on foot. That is the natural way.” said Varun.  And there are specific areas in the park where one can do this. The minute we got off the gypsy and began walking into the green, I no longer felt like an outsider looking in. As our feet crunched on dried leaves, pretty much announcing our presence, I realised that we’d been stripped of all our illusions of safety and grandeur. This was what it truly felt to be one with the jungle – exhilarating and completely exposed! The highlight of our little walk, though, was when it turned into a trot, then a sprint where we proceeded to chase after the tail end of a pack of Wild Dogs! They outran us of course and all we saw were some paw marks by the stream! In all this time, I couldn’t shake the feeling that we were being watched. “You may not have seen me, but I have seen you,” the sign with the tiger had said at the entrance to the park. Oh, fancy remembering that on our walk!

{Sunset on the Tawa River}

On day 3, we decided to opt for a canoe ride on the picturesque Tawa river, also home to many crocodiles. While I heard cracks of “If anything happens, just make sure you swim very fast” floating around the dinner table, I said a silent prayer to all the goddesses I could think of. We got up bright and early, and made our way to the riverside. It was a beautiful morning {to die on}. The tiny canoe looked suspiciously like the one Rekha was pushed out of in a famous movie!

I managed to quell the theatrics and got into the canoe. I’m not sure if it was the sparkling blue of the river, or the rhythm of the paddles hitting the water, but 15 minutes into paddling and I’d never felt so at peace, and free. As we silently glided forward, a gazillion species of birds soared above us, or stopped to adorn the banks. Some flew so close to us that I was tempted to reach out and touch a wing. I was still on the lookout for our reptilian friends though. I was fortunate to have spotted one in the water from a safe distance, while on land at our breakfast spot! The joy!

Parting is sweet sorrow indeed!

Go to Forsyth’s and Satpura if you appreciate a complete jungle experience. They will help you see that the way to spotting big players like the tiger is through understanding everything else around – the alarm calls of a Sambar, a distressed group of Langurs, or the claw marks on a tree. It’s a place where the little stories of the forest will be pieced together for you; where you can spend an entire day in the wilderness and meet only three other gypsies! Take in the beauty of the park – a monkey’s playground in its interconnected strangling vines, crocodile bark trees, and eerily-white ghost trees, along with a sudden explosion of expansive grasslands. And if you’re lucky, you may find what you came looking for while discovering so much else along the way. I hope to go back someday and meet the elusive leopard.

About the Author | Janusa Sangma, is a Delhiwaala, and is the winner of the LBBD and RARE – Destinations & Experiences Contest Winner of 2012. Her winning entry of her experience in Egypt, had us smitten with wanderlust, and won her a 3 nights stay in the beautiful setting of Forsyth Lodge in Satpura.

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I’m not much of a writer and perhaps that’s why I took to the camera to tell my stories. Unfortunately that too was no good when we recently visited Kushalgarh. Why? Well, we got stoned {I think it was bhang} out of our minds. How? By a Yogi. By choice? No. Would I recommend it? Yes – although now it won’t come as much of a surprise {oops!}.

We left not-so-early Saturday morning for Kushalgarh Lodge – it was at some point the hunting lodge of the Maharaj and Maharani of Alwar, and has now been converted into a boutique resort. I had spoken with Jay Singh {he runs the lodge} a few days prior, only to find out that they had just had their soft launch and were still a few days away from starting up. He, however, insisted we visit the property anyway, with the only drawback being that their bar wasn’t fully functional and recommended we carry our own booze. NO PROBLEM!

The selling point of the lodge was that they had bicycles we could take out into the forest. Sariska is the lodge’s next door neighbor. The place is pretty isolated. A few locals, wildlife, a balcony for evening chai, a veranda for lunch, and the same balcony for wine, as you read books from the Maharani’s collection – dating back to the early 1940s signed in Lahore.

Things however didn’t go as planned at all – almost always a good thing. Post lunch, we were offered a safari through Sariska, or a walk through the village, across a stream, and up a mountain to find a Yogi. I picked the walk up to the Yogi. My co-adventurer picked napping and was vetoed. So, we started. Rajit {the hotel manager} was kind enough to send Monu and Monu’s friend {I forget his name} with us on our adventure.

The path through the village right outside Kushalgarh Lodge. We came across buffaloes. Lots of them. Didn’t get charged at either!

Walked through this stream and up the mountain. A good hike considering how much we had eaten for lunch.

We reached the Yogi’s place. He sat on a massive rock which had a fur carpet on it. A handful of his devotees sat by his feet and were being served by a younger woman. We took the back seat and were also served prasad – two white sweet petha-type things with green ‘stuff’ in the middle. I hesitated, but the three boys {co-adventurer, Monu and Monu’s friend} had already finished eating. They said the green stuff in the middle was spinach. I ate – ‘difficultly.’

I was going ‘WOW WOW WOW WOW’ on repeat in my head. This was happening. We were on top of a mountain with a Yogi. There was a man with a massive moustache. He seemed to be a regular. He kept lighting chillums. Smoking one himself and refilling the Yogi’s every now and then. They seemed connected, even though the Yogi wasn’t much of a talker. You would talk and he would respond in writing. He would also laugh every few minutes, especially, when a woman from the nearby village came to him with her baby. Then, there was an elderly lady; another regular it seemed. The moustache man referred to her as ‘Budiya.’  The Yogi kept moving from one big rock to another and the Budiya followed him.

Women smoked the chillum too. Turns out men and women have different types of chillums. While men’s chillums are straight, ladies are curved like a pipe. Ha!

The sun was about to set so we started heading back. Our crew expanded from the four of us to include the moustache man, Budiya and the lady with the baby. We started our hike down. The moustache man recommended we visit the Yogi again before heading back to Delhi for calm and peace. He also told us that weekly satsangs were held at the Yogi’s where the whole village gathered for prasad.

Then I lost him. I was in my own world, walking through the stream back to Kushalgarh lodge feeling so light! Being such a believer, I was convinced that sitting by the Yogi helped me get rid of all the city stress/hustle-bustle and brought about this calmness that I could only find in such places.

We reached Kushalgarh Lodge and were ready for our chai in our balcony overlooking the same mountain we hiked down from, and then it hit – I burst out laughing at absolutely nothing and wouldn’t stop – I WAS HIGH. The spinach was 2% spinach and 98% bhang, which meant I was high for the next 12 hours. I was Alice in Kushalgarh.

Too exhausted {and lazy and stoned} to move, food was served in our room. Spinach was a part of the meal – I skipped that. We then sat in the balcony, read some of Hemingway’s short stories before finally looking through the Maharani’s bookshelf, and helping ourselves to some Swinburne.

We decided to explore the area more before making our way back to the city. We head to Siliserh Lake and rented a paddle boat, and laughed at what happened the evening before. After an hour or so of being in our duck shaped paddle boat, we started our drive back towards Delhi.

Two things learnt from this trip:

1. Find co-adventurers. They’re the best.
2. Adventure will come. Planning kills the adventure – so stop.
3. Wait, there’s a third. Say no to drugs?

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Crossing thirty is a major milestone for every girl. Gone are the times when thirty was an age that was viewed with dread by women. With the empowerment and independence that women achieve by this age, it makes every single bit of sense for us to celebrate this milestone in style. Such was the sentiment that I had as well, and I wanted to gift myself an experience which would have made this crossing over memorable.

I can’t recall if it was after being exposed to the place through its depictions in film and television, or  through Facebook albums posted by friends from their travels there and hearing stories of how it was safe for the single female traveller, but the itch to visit Turkey had planted itself firmly in my mind. To top it, an exemplary heritage of culinary treasures was a temptation worthy of giving in to. Turkey seemed the perfect recipe to make both the woman and the chef inside me happy.

It had been more than 2 years since I had taken a break for myself, and I had made up my mind to splurge on this trip. Till then, most of my globetrotting had been of the backpacking variety. Though I wanted that to change on this trip, my backpacking experiences had taught me to be a wise traveller who plans ahead. On checking reviews, I realized Turkish Airlines sounded like the best bet – especially when booking a first class ticket {which I had decided to do} – considering the nature of the overall experience they provided.

On boarding my flight and having the delightful vintage Champagne and orange juice offered and a wholesome meal, my instincts as a pastry chef obviously steered me towards dessert. The in-flight menu had a delightful combination of fig, walnut and honey with beyaz peynir {a kind of white cheese, which I learned later, forms a key ingredient in many desserts too}.

With the right tone of initiation set during the flight, on landing in Istanbul, I set out to continue the discovery of desserts.

The Turkish are big on ice-cream, and they love them full-flavored. One of the most popular local brands of ice-cream is Mado, which is widely available across Istanbul. Fairly affordable at 4 Liras for two scoops, this was my staple ice-cream diet for the two weeks I was there. While there is a wide range of flavors, I fell in love with walnut, fig, pistachio and raspberry.

How can one not talk about Baklava when in Turkey. I tried doing a trail in search of the best around town. My personal favorite turned out to be a shop called Karakoy Gulluoglu, which is situated behind the popular restaurant, Namli Gurme. I also learned that the right way to eat Baklava is by turning it around, adding clotted cream to the flat surface, dunking it in ground pistachio and then taking a big bite. Gazinatep is the home of the pistachio baklava. I also tried Kadayif, which are thinner than noodles and are stuffed with nuts.

Another Turkish delight which comes in exotic flavors is Lokum. It has a chewy texture as it’s made of gel {from starch and sugar}. Premium varieties consist largely of chopped dates, pistachios and hazelnuts or walnuts bound by the gel. I particularly liked the one I tried at the Spice bazaar in Istanbul at this shop called Malatya Pazari. Pomegranate -pistachio was my choice to carry back home.

Beyond the more popular desserts, the other few worth exploring are: Kazandibi, which is a pudding with a burnt caramel base, and feels like you are chewing on strings; Borek, a traditional pastry which uses beyaz peynir {remember, white cheese?} as a filling; Sobiyet, another pastry filled with cream and pistachios; Kunefe and Muhallebi; Bulbul yuvasi, which is named after the nightingale’s nest and is a phyllo dough desert; Sütlaç {Turkish style rice pudding}.

Sütlü Nuriye {a Turkish-syle milky dessert}; Ashure or Noah’s Pudding is a Turkish dessert that is made of a mixture consisting of grains, fruits and nuts; Acbadem kurabiyesi, or a form of almond macaroons. These are available widely across Sutis in Taksim and Kadikoy. All of this went best with Turkish tea, which is a must have while you are on the move.

With my journey coming to an end, I found myself at the airport lounge on my way back to Delhi. The lounge had a special immigration section, and since I was in business class, the hustle and bustle of riding long lines was barely there. With all kinds of modern luxuries and amenities available, the 6 hour long stay I had there was just what one would need to unwind after the trip.  I took some time to reflect on the time I had spent in Turkey and looking back at the original objective of the trip – to pamper myself on this crossing of the thirty year milestone – I felt smugly satisfied at the choice I had made with Turkey.

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I got my Open Water Scuba Diving licence on a lark – I was backpacking through the South-East, had a couple of weeks in Thailand, and figured, here’s a new thing to try that should be a lot of fun. Well, “a lot of fun” turned out to be a massive understatement – it’s pretty hard to describe the feeling I get when entering the water, knowing that for the next hour, I’m in a completely silent place, with just the sound of my breathing running through my head as I’m flying through an entirely different world, free of the confines of gravity and full of creatures and landscapes from the most psychedelic of dreams. Yes, that was a very long sentence. And yes, “flying” is the perfect word to use here – I’m no longer trapped in the 2-dimensional world of lefts and rights; I’ve added ups and downs to my repertoire. Take that, Gravity.

Since then, I’ve done some more diving and seen a lot more mind-boggling stuff, including a whale shark lazing around 5m below me, a bunch of dolphins swimming around on the surface above, hundreds of barracuda surrounding me as far as I can see, and a shipwreck 30m below sea level that has now become one with nature. And most people don’t even realize how easily accessible these experiences are.

What does Scuba diving involve? It involves finding a good dive operator, putting on a dive suit, mask and fins, strapping on an oxygen tank, and jumping off into the water with your dive buddy/instructor. You’ll start off with a 3-day diving course, called the Open Water course, which teaches you the basics of diving and how to dive comfortably up to a depth of 18m. Will there be any discomfort in the beginning? Probably. A lot of people, including me, felt some claustrophobia in the first dive. Plus of course the realization that breathing through your nose is off-limits takes some getting used to. But it gets better very quickly – I’ve run into many people who were quite pensive at the end of their first dive, but by the end of the course, decided to stick around and do the advanced course as well. You don’t need to be an expert swimmer – you only need to swim to get to the boat or float for some time on the surface once you’re done with your dive. 

Asia’s full of places where you can find some excellent dive schools with proper certifications, high-quality equipment and very experienced dive trainers. Diving courses cost roughly the same anywhere you go – you’ll pay between 13K and 17K {13,000-17,000 INR} for an Open Water course at most places in Asia.

India

In India, you could go to Lakshadweep, The Andamans or Goa. Lakshadweep’s a rather expensive place to get to, though, and the water in Goa is considered too murky for a good dive, so The Andamans would probably be your best bet. Havelock Island has quite a few good diving schools. I went to Dive India and had an excellent experience, but a few others like Barefoot are supposed to be equally good. Getting to Andamans is easy enough, and stay can be very expensive at Barefoot’s resort, or very cheap at some of the smaller beach cottage places, so there are enough options available.

Thailand

Thailand is another option – just as easily accessible and would probably cost the same or just a little more to reach. Koh Tao, an hour away from Koh Samui, has 50+ dive schools. Safety is of paramount importance, of course, so you want to make sure that the dive school is reputable. Trip Advisor is a great resource for this – any dive school with a 100+ positive reviews should be reliable. Krabi, Phi Phi, Phuket – most of the popular islands in Thailand have some good dive schools.

Philippines

Boracay is one of the most popular places to dive in Asia, plus it’s a great party place. How could you not be convinced already? Coron in Palawan and Anilao near Manila are other very good options.

Indonesia

While there are enough and more dive schools near Bali, the three Gili islands and Komodo are considered to be much better, with richer marine life.

There’s a lot more to do after the Open Water course – the Advanced course opens divers up to possibilities like wreck diving, night diving, underwater photography specialisations, and after that even deep diving, which takes you down to 40m, the limit of recreational diving. But whatever you do, don’t forget one thing – a good underwater camera. You won’t regret it.

About the Author | Vineet is, at any given point, either travelling, or daydreaming about travelling. He has backpacked quite a bit over the last few years, and refuses to rest till he visits Hobbiton in New Zealand. And scuba dives the Great Barrier Reef. Sorry, back to the daydreaming now.

The post Life inside the Fishbowl appeared first on Little Black Book, Delhi.

Think lush green vegetation, pure fresh air, and clear blue skies…Think Mashobra…

About a three hour drive from Chandigarh and 14 km northeast of Shimla, lies this idyllic little locale of untouched natural beauty that falls somewhere between a village and a small town. Perched at a height of 7,700 feet, Mashobra is away from all the touristy hustle-bustle of Shimla and the perfect excuse to get away from it all.

So what makes Mashobra such an attractive hideout for Dilliwalas? If you’re looking to escape the unpredictable weather, the noise, and the pollution over a long weekend, this could be the ideal spot. No wonder so many stressed out city dwellers have invested in little therapeutic summer retreats here, where they run to every time they need to recuperate, perhaps introspect, slow down their fast-paced lives, or simply soothe their wearied nerves.

I spent a relatively sleepy weekend here recently, and figured that it had all the necessary ingredients: misty windows, heavenly sunsets, cups of steaming hot tea, samosas, and jalebis from the neighboring dhaba, delicious apples, cozy bonfires amidst tunes from the local radio, languorous cream puffs, and thick wool sweaters – sometimes that’s all you need!

There isn’t a whole lot to do except to absorb the town’s charm, complete with its strolls overlooking pretty old houses, monkeys swinging from tree to tree in the beautiful deodar forests, or the numerous walking trails and romantic drives. You know you’re in the hills when the sound of buzzing cicada insects – nature’s very own background music – is all that surrounds you …

… 

Notes in our Little Black Book |

{ Sightseeing highlights }

Bekhalti | One of the most picturesque drives or walks in the area, this 18 km long level road is laced with the occasional waterfall that springs out of nowhere.

Craignano | About 3 km from Mashobra, a meandering path leads up to this beautiful spot amid groves of trees and wild flowers – ideal for picnics and camping.

Naldhera | The highlight here is an 18-hole golf course that’s said to be the country’s oldest.

St. Crispin’s church | Atop Mashobra, on a small hill among a copse of trees, is this church that’s now been converted into a dormitory by the YMCA.

Col Grover’s fruit pickle outlet | Located on the main road, this is your stop for some of the yummiest jams, pickles, and squashes this side of town. Don’t forget to take home some lip-smacking mushroom pickle!

Shivalik Food Products | Run by Mrs Jain, you’ll find this eatery on taking a left turn from Mashobra’s bazaar. It has some of the finest fresh fruit, ice cream, and fruit juices. The strawberry jam was my favorite!

{ Where to stay }

Wildflower Hall | The castle-like ambience of this hotel is every bit elegant and tasteful, and likely to remain with you long after you’ve checked out.

Club Mahindra’s Whispering Pines Resort (Gables hotel) | A perfect place for families to stay, with fun activities and animation for everyone.

Garden Resort | Well located within the Sabina Orchards, this residential complex offers five lovely furnished apartments with kitchens for rent.

The post The Hills are Alive…in Mashobra appeared first on Little Black Book, Delhi.

{LBBD} & RARE Destinations are giving you just that!

A 2 night, 3 day getaway to a RARE destination* 

All you have to do is write to us, in 250 words or less, about a destination you’ve been to which is rare and unique, and why.

From its location to the décor, its charismatic owners or the amazing food they have to offer- tell us what made your experience exquisite and authentic! It can be any place in the World- as long as it has what it takes to be rare!

Send in your entry to editors@littleblackbookdelhi.com, and if your recommendation is RARE enough, you and a friend can holiday at one of the beautiful properties courtesy RARE.

So pack your bags, Dilliwaalas. It’s time to holiday!

Terms and conditions |

• - applicants must be above 18 years of age
• - the winner will be decided by the sole discretion of the organizers {LBBD & Rare Destinations}
• - the prize only includes a 2 night 3 day stay at a destination that falls within the ambit of RARE destinations & Experiences. Transport and all other additional costs will be borne by the winner themselves. 
• - the winner will need to claim the prize within 6 months of them being declared as the winner
• - the prize is non-transferable and cannot be claimed as cash
• - the final prize offered to the winner depends on availability of the given hotel 
• - contest starts on August 10, 2012 and finishes on September 20, 2012

The post {LBBD} & RARE are sending you on a vacation! appeared first on Little Black Book, Delhi.

As for now, we’re keen on taking a breather from city life over the long weekends coming up this month. Avid traveler and one on a constant search for exquisite places to stay and explore, Shoba Mohan is opening her Little Black Book of rare and extraordinary destinations for us! From the Patan Mahal in rajasthan to Aalia by the Ganges, she has explored and stayed at these beautiful properties. If we could, we would travel to each and every one of these destinations. So mark the weekends of Janmashtami {Aug 10, 11, 12} and Id-ul-fitr {Aug 18, 19, 20}. August 15th falls mid-week; for the Delhi-waala’s with generous bosses or those lucky enough to be self-employed, treat yourselves to a long holiday. 

Based on driving time, given the traffic conditions on our highways, here’s are some idyllic getaway options: 

Three to Five Hours Drive from Delhi 

Patan Mahal {Rajasthan} | Patan Mahal is just over a three hour drive from Delhi right off the Jaipur highway surrounded by high Aravallis on one side and a private farm on the other. A private heritage home, Patan offers spacious and beautifully furnished palace suites and deluxe rooms. It is an ideal as a getaway from Delhi. The owner who looks into every detail personally supervises a guest staying here. Everything from the service to the cuisine is impeccable here. If you are the adventurous type, be sure to explore. They offer treks to the Monson fort that is on top of a hill, visits to craft centers in the village and walks to private farms. A package for 2 nights is at  Rs. 10,410 / – per couple 

For more information on the hotel, have a look at their website | www.patanmahal.com

Ramgarh Lodge {Rajasthan} | Ramgarh lodge was the hunting lodge of the erstwhile Jaipur royal family. It has been gorgeously re-invented to highlight its art-deco styling, interior and architecture. It has the distinction of being a Taj Geteway Hotel and is at an easy driving distance from Delhi and NCR with Jaipur just 45 mins away.

Set high on an embankment, amidst vast manicured lawns, lush tree canopies that flower and flourish and are open invitation to birds, it emanates a general sense of quiet and loose-limbed relaxation. Ramgarh is an ideal getaway over weekends or to stay unrushed even as you drag yourself away for Jaipur’s sites. If you are traveling with families you will love the luxury of apartment-sized rooms where a third bed would neither impinge on your space nor your pocket. The rooms and suites are seriously huge!

For more details, have a look at their website | http://wowtaj.com/the-gateway-hotel-ramgarh-lodge-jaipur.html

Narain Niwas Palace, Jaipur {Rajasthan} | The charm of Narain Niwas Palace is the estate it stands on- a ten acre grove in the middle of Jaipur city. It is like a green oasis that is in perfect harmony with the palace and its annex quarters. The atmosphere is charged with chirrups and fragrant air blowing through the myriad of plants and trees. Walking up the wide driveway, your first glimpse is of the Haveli, a typical marriage of Indian and British building styles – arches, columns, courtyards, verandahs, bold fresco design.

Narain Niwas offers 37 rooms and suites, adorned with period furniture and up-to date features. A swimming pool, spa, two restaurants, a bar and a chic shopping arcade promises an original cultural address in the city of Jaipur. Narain Niwas is noted for its fresh and delightful cuisine that is a combination of recipes from Rajasthan and northern India.

For more details, have a look at their website | http://hotelnarainniwas.com

Castle Kanota, Nr. Jaipur {Rajasthan} | A small town off the Jaipur-Agra highway, about thirty minutes by road from Narian Niwas, is Castle Kanota. This is still the Narain Niwas family’s residence and is set in a eight acre estate which offers 18 beautiful suites amidst extensive gardens and lawns.

Castle Kanota is ideal for activity-based programs like yoga, musical performances etc. It is also perfect for friends and family to have celebrations on a small scale.  

For more details, have a look at their website | http://hotelnarainniwas.com/castle-hotels.html

Four to Six  Hours drive from Delhi 

Aalia by the Ganges, Haridwar | Designed like a private farm house spread between mustard and rice fields in front and the Ganges flowing in the backdrop, Aalia is made up of twelve villas. Each villa is a self-contained unit with three suites, a study, lounge and dining. A restaurant that can cater to about sixty people, a cozy cigar lounge, a yoga deck, a river-side pool and a spa make Aalia the perfect place for relaxation. It can also be a starting point for a variety of treks to the upper Himalayas and a base to explore Rajaji National Park, Asia’s largest elephant sanctuary. From here, visits to Haridwar and Rishikesh can be undertaken with ease. 

For more details, have a look at their website | www.aalia.net

Te Aroha, Dhanachuli {Uttarakhand} | Te Aroha is a well-designed retreat/getaway in the hills that stands aside from the innumerable hotels that dot the hills of Kumaon.

It has been specially designed to serenade couples with cozy nooks and romantic spaces. While there is much to explore around it, you will also enjoy Te Aroha and its many stories of “the making of Te Aroha” – how incessant snowfall wouldn’t let them complete the extension project; the stylish bench in the Coffee Room that was procured from the Parliament House; the rare 17th century map in the living room of the  old wing; the “odd couple” photo collection which is the underlying theme of the suites/rooms  and some of the common areas; Sumant’s collection of vintage soap adverts featuring yesteryear Bollywood actresses and many more alluring stories. The package for 2 nights is at Rs 24,900 per couple

For more details, have a look at their website | www.tearoha.in

Latitude 30° – N Ganga, Rishikesh {Uttarakhand} | Overlooking the Ganges, 30 Kms from Rishikesh, sitting at the exact co-ordinates as the name suggests is Latitude 30°N Ganga. Positioned as an ‘Activotal’, the entire focus is on adventure, fun and nature based tourism along with the comfort of modern living.

The core team at Latitude has kept the resort simple It aims to rejuvenate stressed city dwellers. Activities here include rafting, kayaking, rappelling, mountain biking, nature walks, yoga, birding and a state of the art obstacle course. A trip can also include programs that cover the Himalayan foothills, Kumaon village walks and the wildlife in Corbett. Package for 2 nights comes to Rs. 25,000 per couple.

For more details, have a look at their website | www.latitude30.in

Long Vacation Stay

Neeralaya, Raison {Himachal} | Neeralaya is a serene river-side retreat set in the village of Raison, just off the main Kullu-Manali road. Three typical mountain villas, a thatched dining shack, a breakfast gazebo, a staff office and reception, kitchen garden, huge expanse of landscaped gardens with the river Beas flowing close by, makes for a picturesque retreat. Each villa offers rooms, a living area, dining, kitchen and plenty of sit-out options. The exterior of the Villas are made up of recycled timber, slate and stone to preserve the heritage hill’s architecture while the interiors are modern and very comfortable. The guest rooms are quintessentially mountain style – large, spacious and comfortable with wooden flooring, fireplace, writing desk, closet and windows or verandas with views of the river. Activities range from fishing trips, treks to Jana village, walks through apple orchards, visits to local temples, day trips to Manali and rafting.

3 Nights / 4 Days package | Rs. 39,000 per couple

Website | www.neeralaya.com

Mary Budden Estate, Binsar {Uttarakhand} | In the high mountains of Kumaon about an hour’s drive from Almora is the Binsar Sanctuary, a celebrated haven for the Himalayan wildlife and birds.

A twenty minute drive from the Ayarpani Gate {the main entrance to the sanctuary}, a little beyond the famously ramshackle KVMN bungalow, just below the zero point lies Mary Budden Estate. The estate has two charming cottages – the Mary Budden Cottage and the Rhododendron Cottage that together offer 7 exquisitely furnished rooms with generous sit-out and outdoor spaces. Each cottage has its own dining room as well as a living room and verandah, hence ideal for friends and families traveling together.

For more details, have a look at their website |  www.marybuddenestate.in

Ready, set, book! If you’re looking for more options, check out www.rareindia.com and you can book your weekend with Shoba Mohan by sending an email to shobatsm@gmail.com. 

The post Because Everybody Needs a Holiday! appeared first on Little Black Book, Delhi.

With inputs from Upasana Gupta

We went on a bit of a break- and when we finally did get back together, it was a rocky start. But then the sun came out and the purple-skied morning put a smile upon my face. My love affair with London is a bit hard to explain- the bittersweet air, the lonely or independent walks, the Starbucks chai tea latte and the annoying but endearing accentuated way of talking. My love aside, the Olympic city is the place to be this summer. Bringing you

101 Things to do in London this Summer

EAT |

{Price: Not too steep}

1. Prezzo- Italian {order the Pane Con Chipolla}

2. Wagamama- Noodle Bar. For Pan fried Oriental- Cha Han Rice/ Yaki Soba /Ramen/ Chicken Katsu curry. Multiple locations, my favourite is the one next to London Eye, courtesy the amazing view.

3. Chiquito- For Mexican, At Leicester Square

4. Chipotle- For Mexican, At Charing Cross; try their Burrito in bowl {my favourite- the guacamole}!

5. Wahaka– For Mexican, At Canary Wharf

6. The Real Greek- For Greek, of course!– try their Halloumi, Chicken souvlaki, Spanakotyropita, Gyros, Dolmadakia. At Westfield Mall near Shepherds Bush tube station {Shop Alert!- literally Oxford Street in a mall}

7. La Tasca- For Spanish. Highlight for us- Sangria pitcher. At multiple locations, the one next to the waterside at Canary Wharf right before the Canary Wharf main tube station offers a good view.

8. Maroush- This place is for Lebanese food & sheesha lovers. At Edgware road, near Marble Arch tube station

Edgware Road

9. Yala Yala- For Lebanese. At Oxford street

10. Las Iguanas- For Brazillian, above Wagamama at London Eye.

11. Masala Zone- For Indian. At Bayswater, Camden town, Covent Garden, Earls court, Soho.

12. Tamatanga- For Indian. Try the masala fries

{Price- Now Now! Lets be generous}

13. Buasaba- For superb Thai. At Oxford circus {LBBD Recommended}

14. Ping Pong- For dumplings. At Oxford Street

15. DIMT – For Chinese {grilled Dimsums}. Near London Bridge

16. Cafe Rouge – French food. At Canary Wharf/Leicester Square

17. Hakkasan- The absolute best Oriental food you can find in London. Try the mock chicken! Find this Michelin Star restaurant in Mayfair & Hanway Place

18. Yauatcha- Superb Chinese

19. Quilon- Indian food- Michelin Star holder. St. James Court, near Hyde Park

Breakfast

Breakfast at Automat

20. Giraffe– great smoothies

21. Automat –Mayfair

For your midnight hunger pangs

Rocher Sundae | Tinseltown

22. Tinsel Town- an American diner of sorts- fat burgers & milkshakes. The cheesecake is divine.

23. Pasha- Moroccan cuisine in a cosy, almost dingy setting. {Gloucester Road}

24. Proud Camden- A bar in Camden, Stable Market, perfect for late night nibbles.

SPEND AN EVENING AT |

St. Christopher’s Place

25. St. Christopher’s Place- This purple walled plaza square behind Oxford Street has the coolest, cutest cafes, restaurants and I mean it when I stress on the purple wall- photo alert- beautiful!

Apple Market | Covent Garden

26. Covent Garden- My favorite place in London. The ‘Apple market’ in the middle, selling all sorts of photo art, trinkets, posters and things you will never need but will always love. Eat- Ella’s Cupcakes, Ben’s Cookies, get a drink at Punch & Judy.

Punch & Judy Bar

27. Vertigo 42 in Canary Wharf, which is near Greenwich {take a ferry from Westminster station London – 7 pounds per person}. A bar on the 42nd floor between skyscrapers, it offers a  stellar view- great for vino lovers.

Camden Town

28. Camden Town The British ‘paharganj’, this is the ghetto market where everyone walks freely, wearing what they want, smoking what they find, buying whatever’s cheap enough. Do try the pasta next to the river, shop from the Stables Market {some of the best buys of my life}. Tip- Go with an open mind, you never know what you might find here!

29. Watch a musical - Phantom of the Opera was totally worth the experience– tickets can be bought at Piccadilly Circus & Leicester Square’s Last Minute ticket counters – sooner the cheaper!

30. Neals’ yard– near Leicester Square tube station – small vibrant area with cafes, bookshops, bakeries & Ice Cream parlors.

31. Floridita – Salsa the night away at this club in Soho

32. Row a boat at Richmond

33. Cocktails at Clapham – a traditional pub crawl of sorts

34. Catch a band at Brixton

35. Walk around South Bank – buzzing with activities

36. Dinner at Docklands

37. Sushi at St Pauls

38. Bagels at Brick Lane – the bakeries look pretty small but the bagels are delicious

39. Go back in history at Kensington

40. Open air movies during summer – check out Time Out for schedules

41. Lola’s cupcakes at the Selfridges Foodhall {oxford street}

42. Strawberries dipped in chocolate at the Godiva Store on Regents Street

43. Hi-tea at the Ritz Hotel

44. Explore East London- Spitalfields, Shoreditch are all going to be lovely this summer.

YOU DON’T LEAVE LONDON WITHOUT VISITING |

45. Big Ben

46. London Eye {It can get a bit boring up there- Take romantic company maybe ;)}

47. River cruise on Thames- Take the with-commentary option, not the quick travel one. Club this with your visit to Canary Wharf & Greenwich

48. Visit Greenwich- Prime meridian at the Royal Observatory – great place to walk around on a bright sunny day

49. Westminster Abbey

50. London theatre – Phantom of the Opera- must watch! Lion King. {Tickets available at Leicester Square}

51. Buckingham Palace – Changing of the Guards

52. Hyde Park – Go cycling in the morning {free for the first 30 minutes and 5 pounds for an hour after that}

53. Feed ducks at St. James Park

54. Walk through Chinatown at night

55. Leicester square- Casinos, Haagendazs, Ben & Jerry’s.

56. Trafalgar Square

57. Piccadilly Circus- The London Trocadero- Get a vintage dress-up photoshoot done here at the lower ground level.

58. Tower Bridge and London Bridge – can be done enroute Greenwich {take the ferry}

59. Walk through Nottinghill - you can visit the bookstore from the movie!

60. Absolute Vodka Ice Bar - Regent street, Piccadilly – entry 14pounds for 40 minutes including a complementary drink– booking recommended for weekends

61. Churches & Cathedrals in London – most of them have free entry {there’s a beautiful one with a Sunday Market, at Piccadily Circus, opposite the Le Meridien Hotel}

62. Kohinoor Diamond at the Museum

63. Madame Tussauds – booking online gets a good deal

Notes in Our {Little Black Book} |

# Can do Madame Tussauds, London Eye, Greenwich, Camden and Canary wharf on the same day – quick visits if you have your tickets in place and are short on time

# Don’t miss Edinburgh castle- In Scotland, of course

# Also, closer to date of travel, look up TIME OUT LONDON for current activities

SHOPPING |

Street/flea

64. Portobello Road- Weekends only flea market- for stunning vintage finds, florals & prints, very reasonably priced

65. Camden- Through the stable market, in quite an unusual setting, there are lots of little shops and stalls, selling clothes, bags, accessories which you’re unlikely to find the next girl on the street wearing {unlike from a certain store!}

66. Carnaby Street- behind Oxford Street- find the Steve Madden store here for your shoe fantasies!

Standalone stores {multiple locations} 

67. Dorothy Perkins- work trousers, subtle dresses

68. H&M- Steal the deals here- basic t-shirts fit like a dream

69. New Look- personally, I would only pick up shoes from here

70. Topshop- Overpriced but good variety. Tip: Do not visit the one on oxford street- you might pass out in a stampede!

71. Schuh – comfortable footwear {Onitsuka Tigers for guys}

72. Miss Selfridge – shoes & accessories

73. Mango- Great sales

74. Forever 21- A massive store on oxford street- Girls go wild!

75. Primark – A money saver’s paradise- items here get as cheap as 2 pounds a t-shirt. So get your hands dirty people! But make ensure you enter any Primark outlet ONLY on a weekday. Its madness to try on clothes and/or pay on the weekend

76. Hamleys Toy Store – interesting for all!

Let’s take it up a notch

77. Bershka- for the chic chic

78. Massimo Dutti- for the classic shopper

79. River Island- for the fun dresser!

Departmental Stores

 80. Debenhams

81. Marks and Spencer

82. Harvey Nicholas – Knightsbrigde

83. Harrods 

84. Selfridges- No store makes me happier than Selfridges- Agree, anyone?

85. House of Fraser

Notes in Our {Little Black Book}

# At either of the last 3, you could get free make up or hair done for a party in the evening – cheeky but fun!

#Regent Street, Oxford street and Piccadilly are parallel so u can go around on the same day. Oxford Street has all these shopping places mentioned above (plus most at Westfield Mall near Shepherds Bush tube station). Regent Street has premium brands like Burberry, Ferrari, and Banana Republic etc.

AROUND LONDON |

86. Brighton - artificial beach, a pier with a mini-circus, restaurants & cafes around the waterfront. Very lively atmosphere. Should be done only on a sunny day. Check for BBC weather updates prior to planning!! Train to Brighton is a good option– about an hour from London

87. Bicester Village – OUTLET shopping complex for all high ends- Gucci, Jimmy Choo, Cavalli, Ralph Lauren {huge}, Prada & the works. It is almost an hour away from London. A must visit if you want to save a little on your large bills. Sizes can be a problem though. All discounted by 30 – 40%!

88. Bath/Stonehenge- One-day bus tour to cover both. There are different packages to choose from – one includes Windsor Castle as well. When in Bath keep time out to check out the Roman Baths and Bath Abbey. The Jane Austen Museum is worth a visit too.

89. Cornwall – Beach trip – It is a little far away so u may have to take out 2 days. Go camping there. Look up packages.

90. Cambridge - Go “Punting” which is a boat ride through the waters in the university. You can see the residential halls on either side.

91. Oxford- beautiful and historic sites in many of the colleges. Various movies have been shot on the campus including Harry Potter! Must see- Christ Church College, New College, Bodleian library, Bridge of Sighs, Radcliffe Camera, etc. Most of these places can be visited with or without a guided tour. However, some of the colleges have an entrance fee. The Bodleian Library can only be viewed with a guided tour, most of which sell out fast -ensure you get there early around 9am to get tickets. Many Cathedrals in the Colleges are closed during hours of the day – plan your visit accordingly. There are three museums here – The Ashmolean Museum, University and Pitt Rivers Museums, and the Science Museum – free and worth a quick look. There are a lot of shopping spots here as well such as Cornmarket St., Covered Market. There are many historic and famous pubs here such as the Eagle and Child, Bear, the Chequers. If you plan to come to oxford, plan in advance, because you can get really cheap tickets based on availability!

92. Nottingham {2 hour train from London St. Pancras}- We seek your indulgence as I go on about this one- Upasana happens to have spent 3 amazing indescribable years in this town. The University Main Campus is definitely worth a visit, with its lakes, old buildings and vibrant atmosphere. The nightlife in Nottingham is perfect for that overnight trip- Go to Oceana, Forum or Gatecrasher, and get sorted for less than 20 pounds per head. The food is incredible, sheesha parlors abundant, and the streets…they speak to you. I find it easier to shop here compared to London and its chaos.

93. Birmingham – For Bullring Mall and the Cadbury World. An hour and a half away from London by train. Cadbury world is about 15 minutes away from Birmingham: take the train to Bournville and the whole city is Cadbury city– it even smells of dairy milk!

Notes in Our {Little Black Book} 

# You can skip Bull Ring mall in Birmingham and visit Westfield mall in London only if you are aren’t planning on visiting Cadbury world

# If your already seeing London, Birmingham/Manchester are very similar cities so could be avoided. United Fans not included here, of course!

94. Wales (down south). The Southern most point in Wales is called Swansea. About a 4 hour drive from London, a nice drive. It is a beautiful city with 3 bays, the sea front. You could rent a BnB or a cottage and make that your base city. Besides exploring Swansea alone, you to drive to different cities like Cardiff, Bristol etc.

95. Lake District/ Windermere ahead of Lancaster. Huge lake, cruise etc. You could do it en-route Scotland, choose your train route from London accordingly. But Scotland would be similar in terms of picturesque beauty, maybe even better!! So if you have time for Scotland, this can be skipped.

SCOTLAND |

96. For about 3 nights. Ideally, take a train to Edinburgh from London {5 hours++}. Explore the city; spend only one night – decent hotels available. Rent a car the next day {very easily available on an Indian license}, drive to Lochness. Enroute explore St Andrews/ Inverness. Have dinner at Inverness. Drive for about 30mins to Lochness, check into a BnB, take the cruise the next day for half a day. Head to Isle of Skye WITHOUT wasting much time!!!! The drive itself offers breathtaking sights. Portree is a small town where you can find restaurants. A BnB can be picked further up. Aros Skye’s Heritage Centre has a good view from their restaurant. Staffin- where dinosaur footprints were discovered, Kilt Rock is a beautiful area near a waterfall. There is an artificial beach of sorts (you can hike up the hill, the view is magnificent!) Simply unwind in this town by exploring; hikes are a good option. Do check weather updates.

97. Edinburgh- Stay over night to see the Edinburgh Castle {good jacket potato place enroute the castle}, Palace, Parliament Square scotch making, stroll on the shop at Princess street, take the Dungeon tour. Explore Arthurs seat, the dead volcano. Take it the scottish feel of the city.

Notes in Our {Little Black Book}

# Insist on exploring the city on foot

# Incase you want to avoid renting a car, take a bus ride to Inverness, Loch Lomond, Lochness – take a highland bus package wherein they ensure overnight accommodation on B&B basis.

# Do Edinburgh instead of Glasglow

98. St Andrews - Castle visit {can drive through the city while heading to Inverness – good Fish and Chips cafe at the corner of the graveyard}

99. Inverness – The Castle is as good seen from the outside. Walk by the lake, great Persian food {one of its kind around that area}

100. Lochness - take the loch cruise from Nessieland, Loch Ness Lodge Hotel Drumnadrochit is worth it. On Loch Ness, near Drumnadrochit is the Urquhart Castle

 #Opt for the highland tour if u don’t have time to self explore or drive by yourself – 2 to 3 days – shall cover all of the above plus some of the harry potter sites like the train bridge and a castle. Tours start from Edinburgh

101. Ireland- if you are doing going around Olympics, there is no visa requirement. London to Dublin by train + ferry ride is about 38 pounds one way. http://www.seat61.com/Ireland.htm

Londres Quick Tips |

Oyster card for public transport- A must! Don’t take cabs unless absolutely necessary or unless of course, you’re super rich

Student Rail Card/ Youth Rail Card if you are planning to use the National Rail to travel to other places around London (1/3^rd off on fares). Look up www.nationalrail.co.uk

Vodaphone has easily available sim cards for services like email and BlackBerry Messenger, you’ll need to opt in to the BlackBerry Internet Service. This costs 5 pounds and lasts for 30 days

Lyca mobile sim cards- the cheapest available free – addition 5 pound top up gives sufficient minutes to call India

Don’t be a bond- we know its summer but carry a jumper and an umbrella- Its London after all!

VAT refund on shopping – Tax-Free Shopping. Not all shops participate in the scheme and different shops will have different minimum purchase conditions (normally around £75 per shop).

Enquire at the store while billing and participating shops (most of the big ones have it) will give you a special form (VAT 407). This must be presented with the goods and receipts to customs at the airport.

Photo courtesy- Vasudha Sahgal

This summer, London is calling. Coming?

About the Author | Akanksha loves to travel, though ‘wandering’ is restricted to a limited time in the schedule, unless the destination is a beach! She spent a year in Lancaster while pursuing her Masters, managing to explore various cities in U.K. This comprehensive list has been edited over the last four years, and the latest addition was made over her trips to London in 2011. Besides that, her friends have been kind enough to testify the practicality of random suggestions made before this ‘to-do’ was created.

The post 101 Things to do in London This Summer appeared first on Little Black Book, Delhi.

If there’s one thing which temporarily transforms a blackberry addict into a happy camper, a reserved someone into a daring cliff-jumper, and a realist to a dreamer, it is travel. Take a break from your choc-a-bloc schedules! Here’s a list of a few destinations, just a hop-skip-jump away from Delhi

The Super Quick Three

For the adventurous you | Cliff jumping & Paragliding- Rishikesh

If you’re looking for fun in the sun with surges of water to blow you over or throw you under, book a camp in Rishikesh right away. Depending on how adventurous you’re feeling, you can ask your guide to take on an easy level or up the ante by rowing away in rapids called ‘The Wall’ and ‘Golf Course’. Test the waters and your own limits by cliff-jumping! Apart from the adrenaline rush, you’ll find a reward of homely chai and maggie nestled on rocks right next to the cliff jumping spot. Weather reports or Clairvoyants – check with either one before you go paragliding though because the skies can be temperamental.

Getting there

Train {4.5 hours http://erail.in/}
Drive {5 hours from Delhi}

Stay

Glasshouse on the Ganges {pricey, but hey- you’re on a holiday!}
Snow leopard Camps

Eat  

Chotiwala in the main Rishikesh Market
German Bakery {near Laxman Jhoola}

For the busy time-saver | Samode Palace, Rajasthan

Adorned with the heritage of its glorious past, go back in time at the Samode Palace which is just an hour ahead of Jaipur. Words can do no justice to the majestic hallways, and the extravagance strewn across the expanse. Its short distance from the capital makes it the perfect weekend getaway! You don’t need to step out of  the hotel or attempt camel-back riding and exploring Jaipur’s forts. Stay in, unwind and let time stop even if it’s just for a few days.

This may not be a budget holiday, but if money grew on trees this is where we’d spend it!

Getting there

Drive {4 hours from Delhi}
Train {Ajmer Shatabdi to Jaipur, Jaipur to Samode- 1 hour drive}

Do

Camel & horse safaris to the sand dunes
Jeep Safari around the village
Enjoy the beautiful property, lazing in their rooftop infinity pool or in the outdoor jacuzzis

Can’t get enough | Mussoorie

Plenty of our Hill Stations have been criticized for being commercialized, dirty and boring. But if there’s one destination that has managed to hold on to its heritage despite overwhelming popularity, it would be Mussorie- the Queen of the Hills and incidently a second home to me. The doon view reminiscent of a tumbled night sky, omnipresent waterfalls, a ‘Lovely Omelette wala’, horse riding and the old book shops, Mussoorie has an aura like no other. And coming from someone who frequents Mussorie, I can safely say a three day getaway is enough for you to get a whiff of the town, explore its known and unknown nooks and corners, and breakaway from the monotony of your life.

And you don’t need to empty your accounts to enjoy what this town has to offer. You’ll be fine within Rs. 10,000.

Getting there

• Drive : 7 hours if you leave early
• Train : Mussoorie Express/ Dehradun Shatabdi} till Dehradun, a bus ride to Mussoorie thereafter

Stay

• Fortune Resort Grace : very well located at Gandhi Chowk
• Tullahmore Suites : a beautifully restored colonial property, close to the Lal Bahadur Academy and 2 Kms from the Roadways and Taxi Stand of Mussoorie.

Eat

• Chick Chocolate- the absolute best {try the red jelly ice cream}
• Lovely omelette- be prepared to wait a while before your turn
• Le Chef- Sweety Aunty, the owner, serves amazing Indian food here
• Char Dukan at Landaur {read more here}

For those willing to go the distance, we have a few recommendations for which you might need to hop on to a plane from Delhi

The Quick Three

For the drifter in you | McLeod Ganj

McLeod Ganj is one of those rarities which has so much more to offer than what meets the eye. India’s ‘Little Tibet’, Mcleod Ganj welcomes you into its narrow hilly roads, grand churches, beautiful panoramas & understated cafeterias. Its immortal charm pulls many away from their monotony and it’s easy on the wallet.

Getting there

• Drive {8 hours from Delhi}
• Train {Jammu Mail- till Hoshiarpur}

Eat

• Mc’ello {Pierce Brosnan’s favourite & frequented by Richard Gere}
• Jimmy’s- Big Chill style {believed to have been started by a Big Chill ex-employee}
• Common Ground- Authentic Chinese Tibetan food
• Shiva Café- Our favourite for its view, among other things…
• Look out for the Himalayan Marmot, an adorable fat wild guinea pig-like animal, off the turns in the hills

Damage to wallet- More or less 15,000 for a weekend

The Wild Wild South | Bandipur {near Bengaluru} 

The jungles, the space, the hills, everything here seems pristine unlike other wildlife reserves in India. The open jeep safaris, experienced naturalists and the beautiful weather made me fall in love with Bandipur. I was fortunate enough to have spent half an hour watching a beautiful tiger on a rainy evening, as it sat twenty feet away from our jeep right in the heart of this wildlife reserve. The time between June and September promises pleasant rain which tends to drive hoards of elephants towards the paths in the forest. So for all wildlife enthusiasts and nature lovers, you never know what might surprise you here!

Getting there

Fly- Delhi to Bangalore, thereafter a 4 hour drive to Bandipur via Mysore

Stay

Jungle Lodges {for details, click here}

Do 

Book your jeep safari in advance and make sure it is an open jeep

For those with an extra day, drive to Kabini, another beautiful jungle, not too far from Bandipur

Damage to wallet- 20,000 including flights

A ‘Tea’-rrific Escape | Glenburn Tea Estate

A 1500-acre distance of green, away from the helter-skelter of city life, is the Glenburn Tea Estate. With endless expanses of tea plantations, glimpses of shy tea picker villagers and a duo of river valleys being overlooked by a cosy bungalow, it is perfect for the discerning traveler.

Stay

At the Glenburn Estate {click here to see their fantastic options from bungalows to suites}

Do

Experience the Tea-making process {everything from the factory right up to a tea tasting session!}

Go fishing at the Rangeet River- Catch your own Trout!

Hike- Walk over the Manjitar Suspension Footbridge, leading the way across the River Rungeet into the old royal kingdom of Sikkim

Damage to wallet- Be ready to splurge a little more {though they might have off-season discounts right now}

With amazing forests down south, cotton sprinkled skies kissing the beautiful mountain tops up north, the wind so strong that it blows urban tensions away & all of this not too far away, who needs a lifetime! All you need, is a weekend. 

Buenos viajes!

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