By Abhishikta Mallick
My first encounter with Haleem was a few years ago, when a dear friend parceled some to me all the way from Hyderabad. Sadly, that packet had leaked and spilt, and its contents couldn’t be relished. But its aroma and a slight taste was enough to put me on a pursuit for the perfect rendition of this ambrosial dish.
Literally, ‘haleem’ means slow and indulgent. For those who need an introduction, its a thick meaty stew made of pounded wheat, lentils, meat, ghee and spices, slow cooked on a low flame for 10-12 hours. This nutritious one-dish meal was originally created to feed soldiers on the battlefield, and is also prepared as a part of Suhoor and Iftar during the month of Ramadan/Ramzaan. High in calories and ideal for a starving stomach, it is served with caramelized onions and a dash of lemon, and this paste-like dish is unlike anything you have ever eaten before!
Haleem is prepared in Hyderabad only during the Ramzaan month, and for weddings and celebrations. Its cultural significance and popularity can be gauged by the fact that it is the only non-vegetarian dish to be granted Geographical Indication status. Pista House, one of the oldest and most famous establishments in Hyderabad offers an online Haleem home delivery service for Ramzaan: http://www.pistahouse.in/. They deliver in less than 24 hours, and the product is delightfully fresh.
Luckily for Delhiites, the availability of this exotic dish isn’t subject to a particular month of the year. Gali Kababiyan in Matia Mahal Bazaar, Jama Masjid, is the destination for anyone who wants their haleem fix. {Take the metro – yellow line – to Chawri Bazaar, and ask a rickshaw to take you to Karim’s lane}. Naeem Khan’s family has been doling out plates of this delicacy for 125 years. He sets shop there around noon, and sells out in about 3 hours. It is chunkier than Hyderabadi haleem, and is priced at Rs.10 a plate. Word of caution- its buff meat.
- Where | Naeem Khan’s Shop, Gali Kababiyan, Matia Mahal, Jama Masjid, Delhi – 110006
- Timings | 12 noon- 3.30pm, Closed on Friday
- Notes | If you’re making the trip to Dilli-6, get some Shami Kebabs packed from Karim’s…they make the perfect midnight snack. For those with a sweet tooth, Jalebis at Dariba Corner, Chandni Chowk will suit your fancy.
For all haleem lovers who don’t dare to brave the Old Delhi chaos, there’s another option. In the city’s culinary melting point – Haus Khaz Village, stands a Nizami restaurant by the name of Golconda Bowl. Not only do they serve haleem throughout the year, they also serve a chicken version for the health conscious. This, by far, is the best haleem I’ve ever eaten. You can feel the richness and goodness of meat, the spice is not overpowering and every bite resonates the love with which this stew has been hand-stirred for hours.
- Where | Golconda Bowl, 22 Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi – 110016
- Timings | 12pm – 3.30pm, 7.30pm – 11.30pm
- For Reservations, contact | 011 26522207
- Notes | If you’re going for a meal, also try the Patthar ka gosh, Lagan ka Keema and Bagara Baigan
Visually and texturally, haleem is like baby food. But in terms of taste, this stew dances wonderfully on your palate and tantalizes nerves you didn’t know existed. For all meat lovers, this dish is a must-try.
PS: I hear they dish up a mean haleem in Zakir Nagar as well. If anyone is familiar with the area and would like to accompany me on a ‘food walk’, drop me a comment below!
Eid Mubarak!
