Pushkar-Ajmer | Where Time Stops.

By Upasana Gupta

The Ajmer Shatabdi was scheduled to leave Gurgaon train station at 7.05 am. With just 35 minutes to get to the station from the New Delhi airport, I knew I had to make a run for it. It was just like the movies- dense fog, ramblings of an eccentric driver, a race against time…. The moment my car turned into the station, I saw the train ready to leave with my two very faithful guy best-friends. There they were, standing at the door of the train, with their hands stretched out like Shahrukh Khan in DDLJ. I ran for my life, and got on the train just in the nick of time. You’re thinking, how filmy! But this encounter just made this trip very exciting all of a sudden!

On our itinerary – a trio of hot-spots in Rajasthan. Jaipur-> Ajmer-> Pushkar.

Stop #1: JAIPUR

We were in Jaipur for a friends birthday, so our to-do list had “Have a good time”. Drinks, music, friends and funny strangers pretty much summed up a really fun birthday party that night. But if you’d like to spend more time in Jaipur, here’s a list of places you must check-out.

The following day, post-breakfast and a bit of cajoling and convincing our friends’ parents, we drove off to AJMER.

Stop # 2: AJMER

Being a proud ‘Modernite’ with a few ‘Mayoites’ as my best friends, I had never understood their obsession with Mayo College. But on our drive down the Ajmer flyover, I saw the tip of this beautiful tower emerge against the setting sun and the enigma of this college became clear. This tower was the main building of Mayo College Ajmer. We entered the sprawling 300-acre property where my best friend had grown up. With old regal buildings as their houses, smartly dressed boys with their hands folded behind their backs, Mayo had the aura of a bygone era; and I was tad impressed. No trip to Ajmer is complete without the famous butter paneer at ‘Honeydew Restaurant’ {right outside the Ajmer train station}. So a tryst with a century old heritage and our appetite satiated, we headed to Pushkar.

EAT: For all you carnivores, ‘Honeydew Restaurant’ has the BEST butter chicken around so be sure to try it. For all veggie lovers, try ‘Mango Masala Restaurant’, and order the pizza.

 Stop #3: PUSHKAR

We walked through the infamous Pushkar market, flooded by shadows of addicts and aimless religious followers. Neon lights and fluorescent t-shirts lit up this evening stroll. Guitar riffs in the background, bright pink pyjamas and tea-stalls occupied by red-eyed, zoned out tourists, this market reminded of Nepal’s Thamel area. I bought a brown leather duffel bag for 800 bucks, and to keep my friend’s Birthday celebrations going, we picked up a dodgy cinnamon cake which had been “baked” on a traditional chulha.

As you enter Pushkar, you’ll find ‘Honeydew Resort’ on your left; this place has really affordable tariffs. We checked in, sat by a cosy bonfire and waited for midnight with freezing toes and absolutely rubbish conversations. My best friend and I had decided to visit the Khwaja Moinuddin Chisty a.k.a. Ajmer Sharif Dargah, but it was too late then and we had to catch our bus back to Delhi the next day. Our plan was to wake at 5 am and visit the dargah. One minute glitch- we had no way to get there. So at 5 AM, under the twilight sky, and mellow winter breeze, we pestered the only guy willing to listen to us, and made him drive us to Ajmer!

But lord, was the trip worth it! The moment you enter the dargah, this sense of inner peace envelops you. It’s that feeling of tranquility and calm when your mind is at ease and clear of all thoughts. It’s like you’re connected, to yourself, to your faith, to your friends, whatever your connections may be. I found myself surrendering to my surroundings. In a silent corner, there was a blind man singing. On listening closely,  I realized that he wasn’t really singing; he was crying and wailing in song. We bought a chaadar and went in to pray. I was really surprised to see the number of people in attendance in the early hours of a chilly December morning. Experiencing the power of faith and religion is truly overwhelming. Kissing the railing encircling the shrine, we walked out of the space.

On the 30-minute drive back to Pushkar, I saw the sun rise and the moon set in different parts of the sky. It was a silent acknowledgment of them sharing the same universe, marking an end and a beginning of things to come…… 

Tip | Don’t get pressurised or fooled by what passer-byes say. Decide the amount you want to give in-even 100 bucks are good enough- and buy the chaadar within that amount. Also, morning darshan is less crowded and less hectic. 

EAT | Some really smart woman once said, ‘One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well’. To put the various animals rioting in my stomach to rest, we went to ‘Sunset Café’, a small shack-style place facing the stunning Pushkar Lake. It was a perfect morning setting. With cane seating haphazardly thrown on a level above the ground, Sunset Café was probably the highlight of this trip. You’ll find tourists and locals sitting around- rolling funny things and wearing funny strings.  We ordered more food than required, and as usual, it was wiped off within 15 minutes.

Tip | At Sunset Café, Order the nutella pancakes, cold coffee and a few aloo ka parathas, and enjoy the view. Oh and also, do not forget to order the chilli cheese toast!

Finally, we left Pushkar, took the Volvo Bus back from Jaipur to Delhi {leaves almost every hour for and from Delhi to Jaipur}, listening to a psy song on repeat, losing ourselves again. 

 TO CUT THE LONG STORY SHORT |

Best time to go | Now (Feb) or whenever it’s not hot

Damage to wallet | can range from 5,000 to 10,000

Pee stops | On the way to Ajmer, stop at petrol pumps. In Pushkar, behind Sunset café, there is a decent-ish bathroom.

Delhi to Jaipur/Ajmer | Ajmer Shatabdi {leaves at 6.15 am from New Delhi Railway Station}

Jaipur to Ajmer | 2 hour drive. Cabs easily available from Jaipur. Better to take your own car if possible, for the shuttling between Ajmer and Pushkar {20 minutes away}

Stay | Pushkar Resort {slightly high-end} OR Honeydew Resort {Budget}

Must see/do | Eat- Honeydew Restaurant in Ajmer, Sunset Café in Pushkar {breakfast}

                              See- Mayo College Ajmer, Ajmer Sharif Dargah, Brahma Temple Pushkar, Pushkar Lake {facing Sunset Cafe}

If you choose to spend a night in Jaipur, the perfect place to stay is at Royal Heritage Haveli Khatipura.

 WHAT TO PACK |

• Conservative clothes if you plan to visit the Ajmer Sharif, and a long scarf to cover your head
• Car charger
• Hand sanitizer
  
• Good music for the way
• Good company             

      I’d love to hear from you and get any feedback/questions/recommendations, so get in touch with me on upasana@littleblackbookdelhi.com

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